May 3 2009

Packing.

I thought it might be interesting to post a running list of things needed for the trip to see what goes into packing for a trip like this. As far as photography trips, this might be one of the longest single trips I have been on.

Photography Gear:

I have decided to take nearly all my camera gear to Nepal. This is in large part because we have hired a porter for this trip due to the altitude I won’t have to carry anything other than a jacket, my own water and my camera gear. The rest of my gear will be pawned off on one of the porters who are far more fit and able in the mountains than I.

Bodies: Canon 50D, Canon 350D
Lenses: Canon 10-22 f4-5.6
            Canon 24-105 f4 L
            Canon 200 f2.8
            Sigma 105 f2.8 macro

I was going to leave the macro lens behind but have since read that the wild flowers will be in full swing during the trip so I have decided to pack it and see.

I will also be taking a set of Cokin ND grad filters, a set of four batteries for each camera, 20GB worth of CF cards.
All will be carried in a fotofile photography bag because I will be able to carry additional items in this as well as the basic camera gear.

I will be taking a tripod but will not be carrying it myself and it will only be used when I am stopped at the end of each day. I do hope to get some spectacular sunsets on the mountains and will need the tripod to be able to get the sharpest photos possible.

In addition to the camera gear I will also be testing out some new outdoor gear that makes my life a lot more easy when I am shooting. I will do a review of some of the gear that I will be using on the trip and what has worked for me and what has not when I return.


Jan 28 2009

The art of Chimping

I came across a reference to the practise of “Chimping” a while back. That is, the practise in digital photography of checking every photo that one takes on the LCD screen. You know what I am talking about. It is not uncommon to check every photo that we make on the litle screen on the back of the camera, point and shoot cameras now use this display to compose the photo so you know what it is going to look like before you even take the photo.

So does chimping make us better photographers?

Back in the days of film we would have carefully compose photographs to get a desired set up and look. Film was not a huge expense and the cost of a digital camera these days is well above what a film camera used to cost so the price is offset a bit. Digital is not that much cheaper unless you are shooting huge volumes of pictures. Yet there was still an immediate cost of film that is just not present in digital. You can shoot a hundred photos of the same subject and not worry that the hundred photos is going to cost you $5.00 a roll plus developing costs. So back in the days of film you were much more likely to take your time with composition, making sure the light was right, the exposure was on, the subject was interesting and well composed. Today we are much more likely to just shoot the hundred photos and hope we have a good one. We don’t have to worry as much about exposure charts because we can snap a test shot and check the results on the back of the camera. If we don’t like what we see we make the requisite changes.

So in a way chimping does give us an advantage. It lets us be sure that what we capture is the same as what we imagine the image to be. It can lead to the dangers of simply spraying and praying, where hundreds of photos are taken with the simple hope that something good will come of it. If we fall into this trap, no amount of chimping will be able to help us.

One way to make sure you are making the most of your chimping time is not to rely soley on the small picture that is presented on screen. Often this is a poor representation of what the photo will look like when it is displayed on a properly calibrated monitor or in a good print. I will often come back from a photo shoot disappointed with my photos till I look at them on screen, the small LCD display simply does not give an accurate representation of what a photo will look like.

A better way to chimp is to use the luminescence histogram that is now built into most cameras.

goodhist

It should look something like this one taken from photoshop. A histogram will tell you how much light and may even tell you what proportion of colours there are in a photography. It will do this accurately and well if you know how to read them. A good rule of thumb is that a good histogram looks somewhat like the one shown above, with the majority of the peaks falling somewhere in the middle and not to one side. Simplified, this is a representation of the exposure levels of the photo, if the peaks fall in the middle and not to one side the photos is well exposed throughout and does not have any blown highlights or underexposed shadows.

highhist

A histogram that has a good deal of its mass falling to the right, means that much of the photo has highlights, often if the mass is far right or off the chart as in this photo it means that the photo has areas that have been blown and are pure white. These no longer have any colour detail and are very hard to work with. Often this is not something you want to see in your photos but hereĀ  you have to be careful, sometimes you want to have a lot of white or bright areas in your photo, it depends on the look you are trying to achieve so don’t make the mistake of thinking highlights are always bad.

shadowhist

A histogram that has much of the mass to the left means the photo has many dark areas, if they are too far right or there are too many of them, they also mean a loss of colour data and are hard to work with. As with whites, darks are not always a bad thing so here again don’t make the mistake of thinking that a histogram that falls to the left equates to a bad photo, that is not always the case.

So turn on that histogram, learn to use it if you have to chimp. It will give you a much better idea of what your photo will really look like then just relying on that little LCD screen display of your work. It takes some getting used to but once you are used to it you will wonder what you were ever doing shooting without it.


Nov 20 2008

Flash or not to flash.

Shot with Flash

Shot with Flash

Shooting this Loi Gratong got me to wondering why camera makers even put built in flashes in cameras anymore. It is one of those options that is becoming increasingly unneeded with the ludicrously high ISO speeds that are now showing up in cameras and in my opinion in camera flash tends to ruin the ambiance of a shot far more than it adds to it. Posted are two examples of this, the top shot was shot by my camera with no flash, however some one else’s flash happened to go off at the same time as my shutter opened. The bottom shot is another shot, shot in a burst where there was no flash. The first photo has the people better exposed but has that cheesy, white light flash look to it. The bottom shot, while leaving the people in silhouette, manages to better capture the mood of this scene.

Consider this, if you are shooting at night, don’t automatically turn on the flash. If you are shooting a scene that has no motion, a landscape or building, leave the ISO as low as it will go and mount your camera on a tripod. A good stable tripod is one of those things that every photography enthusiast should own and this is not the place to skimp. A good tripod will last a life time and be a pleasure to use. It is the one piece of gear that will improve your photography by leaps and bounds. Dollar for dollar a good tripod is the best investment you can make.

If you are shooting a scene where there are people, animals or any other subject in motion you need a fast shutter speed to capture the moment. Here is where you can try bumping the ISO in your camera to gain an appropriate shutter speed. This is also where fast lenses come into play and the faster the lens the higher the shutter speed you will be able to use. Be aware though that with every increase in ISO there comes a decrease in quality of the capture.

If these two things to not work then by all means use your flash. But think about getting a good high quality flash that can be used off camera by way of an extension cord. This way the flash will not be so close to the lens and the photo will not end up looking like it was taken with a cheap in board flash.

Final note. Flash work really does have it’s place. Good fill flash work or using the flash in a studio or to create a mood is a very different story. Just be careful with your use of your cameras built in flash.

Without Flash

Without Flash


Nov 13 2008

Lightroom follies

For some reason Lightroom has been putting my newly imported files onto my C: drive. Typically I import new photos onto one 2.5″ drive that has all my photos and another larger desktop drive that stores my backups. This way I can travel with all my photos by just plugging the 2.5″ drive into the computer. I also run my lightroom catalog files off of this drive which allows me to run my own lightroom catalogs on any computer. All I have to do is plug in my hard drive to the computer in question and vollia I have all my catalogs ready to go. (This of course assumes the computer has lightroom installed).

I tried at first to simply move the files manually from the desktop and relocate them with lightroom after. This of course works but it is a labour intensive process. I discovered today that the easy way to move files in Lightroom, is to simply select the photos that you want to move and drag and drop them into the folders pane that you want them to be located in. This both moves the files and ensures that Lightroom will not lose track of the photos.

It will move the files if they are located on the same drive. If however they are on different drives, it will copy them, from here they will have to be deleted on the old drive manually if that is the desired end.


Nov 11 2008

One more thing in the bag.

Went out last night to shoot the Loi Grathong festival in Thailand. This can be a very noisy festival as there is a huge culture of fireworks use associated with the festival. One thing that has made it into my photo bag of late has been a pair of earplugs. It is not an essential thing to have in the bag but it sure makes shooting festivals a lot more comfortable. I spend a lot of time shooting festivals and at under a dollar for a pair of decent earplugs, and a pair taking up about as much space and weight as a memory card, they are going to be one item that from here on in lives in my photo bag.


Oct 25 2008

For the last time, its not the camera.

Michael Reichmann at www.luminous-landscape.com has posted a comparision of The Canon G10 which is a $500 point and shoot camera and a Hasselblad H2, a $40,000 camera kit. The Hasselblad obviously has a bigger image capture size which will translate to better large prints but I was shocked to see how similar the quality of the photos from these two cameras is. The review itself is worth a read, especially if you are planning to spend a significant amount of money this year on camera gear.

I have always believed that to a certain extent it is not the camera that makes a photograph but the photographer. As a travel photographer this is really poignant as every dollar spent on camera gear could be spent on travel and capturing images. A shiny new camera, while certainly a lust object, will not produce great images unless the photographer has to opportunity to let it. While that old camera in your camera bag will most certainly produce wonderful images if you spend the time and money pursuing them.

So the real question it will a better camera make me a better photographer? Well, yes and no. A better camera will produce better quality images but the difference these days between a $1000 dollar camera and a $6000 camera has become so small that the extra $5000 could be put to a lot of use in the pursuit of great images. If it comes down to having the money to take images or have a new camera and no time or money to use it properly, the choice becomes and easy one.

Post script

I am also a firm believer that the quality of an image comes for the quality of the lenses far more than the camera. If you are looking to upgrade something I strongly suggest looking into better lenses. The best lenses on the cheapest camera will produce far better images than poor lenses on the most expensive camera.


Oct 24 2008

How to…

John Owens has some wonderful tips on getting photos published in the pages of Popular Photography. Some of them are very straight forward others I would have never guessed at.

Ie. Don’t submit photos of tree frogs. They are wonderful photography subjects but I would have never have guessed at how many photo editors see on a month to month basis.

And my personal favorite, no photos from behind. I’m personally guilty of this one. Some of my favorite photos are portraits from behind but even I have to admit that photos that showcase the subjects eyes are far more captivating.